The frog can be adjusted forward or backward somewhat to regulate the opening of the mouth. The later models have hardwood knobs that are painted black, while even later models have composition or plastic knobs. Cast iron, rosewood handle and knob. Used in the work shop and home.
The depth stop is made of stamped steel. Early in I started pulling pictures and listings for the highest sale price for all Stanley planes. You'll also see many of these planes cast in brass. Lucky for us floor sandahs was invented, hunh?
How to Identify Stanley Hand Plane Age and Type (Type Study Tool)
The thumb screws and the lever cap screw are nickel plated. Another spur is secured to the left side of the main casting. One thing to check on this plane is that the arm unscrews easily and fits onto the right side of the plane.
The Stanley Bench Plane Page
When the plane is used to cut the groove, the angled fence doubles as a depth stop. Still, the chef in you might find it very useful for scraping your cast iron griddle clean of pancake crusties. These are very scarce, but no one, as yet, cares. Great general purpose plane.
The cutter sticks way up into the opening where it's perfectly positioned to rip apart the knuckles of a careless dovetailer. The iron is held in place by a screw-activated lever cap that's unique to this plane. Most have been replaced by modern electric tools. You only want to own one of these if you're a collector. The box also has a diagonal line scribed across one face to serve as a reference for the proper grinding angle of the cutters.
As mentioned earlier, the totes are reshaped. This area of the casting can be found cracked or chipped. If you need a cap iron, good luck finding it as this is the only Stanley plane that was equipped with such a cap iron. This is a very difficult plane to find, but only the collectors, who have to have one of every plane Stanley ever made, care about it. The wood often becomes all beat to hell or split from years of hard floor scraping.
The arm has a hole drilled through its end so that a nail can be inserted through the hole to tighten the arm. Because the V cutter has two bevels on it, it proved difficult to grind and hone. The rod is slipped through the round opening for it, atop the arched portion of the main casting, so that the smaller diameter is downward.
The depth stop is held in place by two small nickel plated thumb screws, but the last production American ones use slotted screws as do the current English manufactured models. These two cutters are ground to a straight edge, so that they operate just like a paring chisel. The toe is above the surface from just forward of the cutter to the toe's end. Serendipity prevailed in my case as the depth stop, depth stop thumbscrew, and nicker assembly were still in place - not something one would expect. The cutter rests on a simple fin-like projection that arises out of the main casting.
Plane Dating Flowchart
Stanley Trademark Stamps
Judging by the length of time that this plane was offered, you can tell that fur planing was a popular pastime. One of the nicest bench planes we have ever offered! As the cuts are made, the rod will slip down toward the casting until the shoe stops it from moving downward anymore. Both the fence and the depth stop each have two countersunk holes drilled through them so that a wooden face may be secured. In the following pages you will see prices that are both considerably higher and lower than you might expect.
Several other manufacturers made a tool that looks practically identical to this one. An extra wide depth stop, positioned on either the left or right side of the plane, was provided for use on the wider cutters, which were optional with the tool. Second place went to a Stanley No.
The lever cap's screw, the depth stop's thumb screw, and the fence's thumb screw are the only parts that are nickel plated on this tool. This is another popular Stanley plane, xbox live status on which the company built a great fortune. If you find something that interests you please see our order information or send.
- As often found in these planes.
- The blade is normally fixed into the holder so that the blade's cutting edge is parallel with the casting's leading edge.
- Finding the planes in anywhere near new condition is very tough.
- The lower portion of the plane's sides is machined, with the rest above the machined area japanned.
- The plane is pressed steel, and has a projecting steel palm grip which is fastened to the bottom.
- The entire bottom casting is japanned, save for the flat sections of the sole below the tote and around the mouth.
The earlier models have maple handles that are finished with a clear varnish. This cast piece is what puts pressure on the blade when the wing nut is screwed tight. There is a small chip in the bottom edge if the lever cap which does not detract from the usability of the plane. The plane can also be found with the sides of the sole chamfered to reduce the surface area in an attempt to cut down friction. The lever cap also has the unusual feature in that it must be pulled upward so that the lever cap fulcrum screw can engage the cap.
How to Identify Stanley Hand Plane Age and Type (Type Study Tool)
Two small screw holes that flank a larger screw hole on either side of the cutter indicate whether your version originally came equipped with the fence. The cutters are secured with small cast iron clips, which are held to the main casting with small thumb screws. It is not possible to show all these, rush dating but the user will soon discover places where these tools will prove their value.
How Many Patent Dates do you see behind the handplane frog
Stanley claimed that this rabbet cut was particularly useful for installing the weatherstripping on the lock jamb and the head of the door. This is another wierd invention of Stanley's, which really should have sold more than it did. My wife was inspired by some old Stanley artwork and provided the finishing touch by a modern version of the Stanley Imp we call Imp Junior. The earlier models have a semi-circular cutout on the top of the plane, between the two cutters.
These models are fairly scarce. On the handle are two maple or beech totes. The sure way to tell an original fence is to look at the position of the hole for the arm. Most of the planes are found without the handle.
Dating Stanley 78 planes
You can usually scrounge parts from other models, but this approach usually ends up costing you more for an assembled one than it does for buying a complete one. Sometimes you'll find examples where the thumb screw is replaced with a slotted round head screw. The tool is a very simple construction - a wooden handle unfinished maple until the mid's, speed dating comedy and from then on red painted hardwood until it went belly up is attached to a japanned casting. The plane does not have its number cast into it.
- Just imagine if this thing sold like no tomorrow giving Stanley fits of aluminum marketing opportunities.
- Later planes, starting ca.
- That is, if you intend to use it and not collect it.
- These models have a runner with two long pin-like projections that engage the plane.
Then I flattened the bottom and the bearing side which rests against the wood being planed with carborundum powder on plate glass. Cast iron, japanned finish with rosewood handle and knob. Someone paid way too much to get this Christmas present!
Corrugated bottom requires less effort particularly in final finish work. Japanned finish with figured rosewood handle and knob. Check that the receiver isn't damaged where it pivots about the rod - it can crack or break out there. The sole is also grooved to receive the fence. If this clamping piece is broken or missing, good luck trying to make it look original.